Wednesday, February 8, 2012

The Stuff They Don't Show You

I have lived in Panama City, Panama now for 6 months and there are many conclusions I have come to. While Panama's tourism has been steadily climbing there is still much about Panama that they do not warn you about or that they do not show in all the tourist brochures.

Panama IS a police state and it is evident everywhere you go. It is not uncommon to see gun-toting military police patrolling stores, banks, parks, etc. Of course, as long as you're not breaking the law I guess you're okay :) but, still, it IS a bit unnerving. You probably won't see photos of all the military presence everywhere in the tourist pamphlets.

You probably won't see pictures of the incredible traffic jams, lack of parking spaces and lack of (or compliance to) traffic laws. Furthermore, many of the roads are in poor condition and/or were not designed for the load of traffic currently using them.  Parking in the city is a nightmare.  There are one way streets everywhere. There are streets that start out one way that switch to two way traffic with no apparent warning. Traffic converges from four ways in many areas with no traffic signals dictating which lanes from what side of the intersection go first so that everyone from all ways simply pulls into the intersection wherever they can.  Driving in Panama is NOT for the faint of heart!

The city itself is a jumble of skyscrapers and "other" buildings thrown together.  There is a lot of very interesting architecture and loads of great restaurants and shopping but also extremely depressed and/or dangerous places in the city. You can be walking down one of the more "affluent" areas and turn down another street only to find yourself in the middle of a "slum" area.  And walkers beware! Road and sidewalk maintenance is poor and litter and poop is often like "mines" along the pathways. You must watch for potholes in the roads and sidewalks, uneven and/or broken pavement, missing manholes covers, etc. I would not recommend walking without keeping a constant eye on the pavement in front of you or it could result in a serious injury!

It for sure that the pamphlets will not show you all the depressed/slum areas that are scattered all over the city. It would not be wise for a traveler/tourist to navigate around the city on their own.  I would recommend always using a tour guide or taxi to get around the city.

And there IS plenty to see in (or near) Panama City.  You just have to make sure you know how to get there and are with someone who does.  Some of the places I would recommend: The Panama Canal Locks (a must for anyone who comes to Panama), Gamboa (to see a wide variety of wildlife), the Old Panama Ruins, Casco Viejo, the Metropolitan Nature Park (if you want a great place to hike in the city and see wildlife), the Causeway (for great food and museums) and Ancon Hill (for a great view of the city). Many of the places I have mentioned I written about in one of my other blogs.







Of course, there ARE a lot of cool places to go in Panama and I do talk about a lot of them in my other blogs.  Just remember not to go anywhere in Panama City unless you know where you are going or you are with someone who does! This video was shot on the street behind the apartment complex we live in currently. The street in front of the complex is Avenida Balboa, a prominent street in Panama City. It's pretty nice on Balboa but the video shows what can happen if you get off just one street in from the main road.

Sunday, February 5, 2012

Casco Viejo in Panama

After visiting the "Old Panama" ruins we went to Casco Viejo where Panama City was relocated after Old Panama was destroyed and where the Presidential Palace is also situated.  There are a lot of areas that are under "renovation" still but a lot of historical buildings and some great restaurants as well.  It is located on a "peninsula" that juts out into Panama Bay and so is surrounded by many water views. There is a lot of history here as well and many samples of local cuisine and art can be found here.

Entering Casco Viejo in Panama City, Panama

Many of the old buildings have been restored.

There are several old churches to visit.

"The Square" is a popular place to eat lunch and stroll.

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Memorial Statue in front of square.

Enjoying lunch around the square.


Egret "Sentries" guard the Presidential Palace.

Guards patrol 24/7

Main entrance to Presidential Palace.

One of several historic churches.

Altar of gold in one church that remained buried for over half a century to keep it from being looted by the Spaniards.

Strolling along seawall at low tide.  (The tides rise and fall an average of 18 feet!)

Casco Viejo with Panama City skyline in the background.

One of the Emberer Indians displaying her hand-stitched 
embroidered colorful "Mola" squares.






Monday, January 30, 2012

Gamboa

If you come to Panama and want to see animals the place to go is Gamboa. In particular, the Gamboa Rainforest Resort where you can join guided hikes/tours. Here you can really immerse yourself in the jungle and experience all the fauna and flora that comes with a jungle from the birds to the sloths to the leaf-cutter ants marching along their well-worn paths carrying their leaf burdens. If you are there during the rainy season when it typically rains in the late afternoon you can sit on the balcony of the Gamboa Rainforest Resort and watch the mist roll in and the rain pour down while sipping a great Mohito!  It's a great experience. And, the rains rarely last long. You can usually resume your walks after the rain. The dry season begins in mid December and last until March.

 I recommend going with a guide especially if it is your first time.  The guides are trained on how to locate animals and birds for tourists to see.  I was amazed at their ability to do this because try as I might I just can't pick them out like they can, although I am improving.  One would think that the bright colors of many of the birds would make them easy to spot.  On the contrary...The bright colors make them blend in more due to the dense foliage and all the shades of green, yellows and reds... At any rate, I have been to Gamboa multiple times and have seen a lot of critters every time I go.  Make sure you schedule a hike along the "Pipeline Road" and/or do the tour to "Monkey Island" or the "Radio Tower" tour (my favorite). You are guaranteed to see some of the wildlife on these!

If you walk the grounds on your own you can see hummingbirds buzzing from flower to flower, iguanas lounging in trees, basilisks sunning by the pools, agouti running around the grounds, and a myriad of birds if you listen and look. If you care to see some of the "nightlife" you can take one of the night tours on one of their little "trolley trucks" where the guide stands up front near the driver with a big hand-held spotlight and shines light on animals along the way.  How they spot these animals I will never know.  They must simply know the exact locations where to expect them!


Rainforest  Foliage

Lobby inside the Gamboa Rainforest Resort.

Rain usually comes later in the day.

Watch the rain from the resort's bar balcony.

There are many Agouti around.

Basilisk by pool area. (Also called the "Jesus Christ Lizard" for its ability to run across the top of the water)

View of pool area from bar balcony.

Comfortable well-stated rooms at the Gamboa Rainforest Resort Hotel

Relax in a hammock on the room balcony over-looking the grounds and the Chagras River.

Crocodiles (large and small) can be seen sunning themselves
on the banks of the Chagras River. 

Capuchin Monkey
Large Crocodile seen regularly at the "Los Largartos" restaurant in Gamboa.

Large Adult Iguana seen in top of tree during the Monkey Island Tour.

Baby crocodile the guide fished out of the Chagras River to show group.

Capuchin Monkey "drops in" for a visit during the  Monkey Island tour.



Sunset on the Chagras River in Gamboa.

You can relax in a hammock on your balcony over-looking the Chagras River
and grazing Capybarra if you stay at the Gamboa Rainforest Resort.



Capybarra (largest rodent in the world) can be seen grazing
on the grounds of the resort.

Howler mom and baby along Radio Tower hike.


Nocturnal 2-toed sloth snoozes.
Guide leads us up trail to old WWII radio tour site. 

One of the old Radio Tower site buildings still standing.

The jungle "reclaims" one of the Radio Tower site buildings. 

Daytime 3-toed Sloth seen climbing.

Beautiful Rufous Tiger Heron in hunt position.

Howler monkey

Yellow-headed Caracara in tree on hotel grounds. 

Curious Kiskadee

Rufous-tailed Hummingbird takes a break. 

Chestnut-sided Toucan spotted high in canopy along Pipeline hike

Keel-billed Toucan seen in canopy along Pipeline hike. 



Back side of hotel/resort

Gray-headed Chachalaca

Collared Aracari

Smooth-billed Ani

Crimson-backed Tanager